Once Upon a Time: Spoga & Grillen
Commentary by Markus Mizgalski
Since Corona at the latest, Spoga has lost its status as the leading trade fair for the grilling world. And with it, the industry is increasingly losing itself. Could a new trade fair change this?
Anyone who risks a glance at this year's Spoga exhibitor list in the grilling sector will be sobered. And this, even though visitors who still found their way to Cologne last year already thought that it couldn't get any worse. But the number of (prominent) exhibitors is actually still declining; apart from a few manufacturers for whom volume business with retail and DIY chains is important, it is now mainly Asian companies present, hoping for new distribution channels. The classic specialist trade brands, however, are nowhere to be found. A visit to the trade fair exceeds all expectations – but not in a positive way. Of what were once two and a half halls, of which Weber alone occupied half, and two fully occupied outdoor areas, only half a hall and barely more than half an outdoor area remain, with good will. So the question is: How did it come to this? And what does it mean for the grilling world?
The wrong time
Koelnmesse itself is partly responsible for this development, by moving the date for the restart after the Corona pandemic to June, i.e. right in the middle of the season. And since Sunday is no longer a trade fair day, smaller specialist retailers in particular hardly have a chance to visit the fair, unless they close their shops for it. On the part of the exhibitors, not least against this background, there has been repeated criticism of the stand prices, so that they have been heard saying more and more often: We are no longer going to the fair. Instead of building on the pre-Corona era, when the entire grilling industry met in Cologne every September to inspect innovations for the coming season and to exchange ideas, there is now almost insignificance.
Not the fair alone
It would be fatal to blame Koelnmesse alone. The grilling industry itself also contributes to this development. And that contribution is not insignificant. Or to put it very vividly: The industry largely broke down after the hard landing following the two fat pandemic years. Because the number of those who wanted a piece of the "pie" during the boom time, and who certainly benefited from it, has grown steadily. Meanwhile, this pie is significantly smaller, but the number of potential beneficiaries is still high. There is no question that this has consequences.
More and more specialist retailers are giving up, as are grilling schools. Rising costs affect sellers and buyers alike. A steak course for 150 euros is now pure luxury for many potential participants, but anyone who calculates seriously as a provider and wants to deliver quality can hardly offer such a workshop more cheaply. The same applies to high-quality grills. While large retailers with their online shops can absorb margin through volume and offer corresponding discounts, smaller shops have less leeway.
At the same time, the impression arises that every manufacturer is now trying to cope with this situation individually. The "BBQ family" that was invoked again and again in the past is history, unless it was just an illusion anyway, apart from the very early years. In addition, many bloggers are dropping out as multipliers. And those who are still there too often sacrifice authenticity for economic survival.
Difficult self-perception
Thus, the question almost inevitably arises whether a new leading trade fair can reunite the industry and put it back on the road to success. Attempts have been made and are still being made, for example with the temporary relocation of the German BBQ Championship from Fulda to Stuttgart. Currently, with the FIRE&FOOD BBQ Week, which moved to the Cologne metropolitan area in its second year after its beginnings in the Swabian Alb, we are trying to revitalize the industry. Our trade fair sees itself as a meeting point for the grilling world – i.e., for manufacturers, retailers, and grillers.
But it remains difficult. Reduced marketing budgets, less staff, general uncertainty – all this makes potential exhibitors hesitate to get heavily involved in the trade fair topic again. At least that is one truth.
The other truth is that hardly any manufacturer can really provide new impulses. The years before Corona were characterized by the motto "bigger, faster, more." But in the end, the number of customers who have the spatial capacity for monstrous gas grills or six different types of appliances, from pellet smokers to Asado, is limited. Especially since for many, in addition to space, the budget stands in the way of constant expansion. Not to mention the usefulness of such a "fleet."
However, the core problem is that in all the years of the arms race around grilling, the broad masses as a target group have fallen by the wayside. There is a lack of innovations for the mainstream. Smart gas grills for well over four-digit prices, which can be controlled via app, are no more of a lifesaver than opulent outdoor kitchens.
The industry is getting in its own way with its self-perception and image: Because despite all the accessories, grilling has never really been communicated to the broad masses as outdoor cooking – i.e., as another form of cooking where the "stove" is outside. The appearance of the grilling world is still largely bearded, male, and carnivorous. Too often it has an undertone of exclusivity and, on the other hand, always addresses an archaic component with the theme of fire. Accordingly, for many, grilling appliances have not become an everyday cooking element. Unlike stoves, ovens, or even long-established air fryers. And the grills that have the potential to break through these thought patterns are communicated and presented far too poorly. On the one hand, these are electric grills, which would cover the entire field of urban grilling, but which many do not consider to be serious grills. And then there is the topic of plancha: An incredibly versatile device, reaching much further into the classic cooking area, which is precisely why it is too far from grilling for the "real" grillers. Because who – according to their more or less clearly communicated opinion – really wants to eat vegetables that go beyond the status of a side dish when a tomahawk steak is waiting instead. Accordingly, hardly any new impulses come from influencers. While well-stocked supermarkets have long offered an immense variety of vegetarian and vegan dishes for the grill, the grilling scene celebrates Wagyu & Co and turns up its nose at tofu and seitan. Furthermore, social media channels with grilling recipes from various international cuisines are as rare as corresponding grilling books. Anyone who likes to cook, on the other hand, can hardly save themselves from magazines and videos about Indian, Italian, Turkish, Chinese, or perhaps Mexican cuisine. Apparently, there is a market here.
New fair, new life?
So, if the grilling industry wants to tie in with good times past, it must evolve at this point. It must – with all due respect – leave its bubble and focus more on everyday utility. The self-perception should change, and the grill should become an everyday cooking appliance rather than an end in itself. The message that a grill can do more than just cook steaks and pulled pork should not just be hidden in a terse paragraph about an accessory, but must be authentically conveyed. No manufacturer of kitchen stoves advertises that you can prepare particularly good black halibut with truffled mashed potatoes on their appliances. But that doesn't mean it couldn't be done if you wanted to. Accordingly, the message for grilling should be that roasting Wagyu beef is the exception rather than the rule.
A new leading trade fair can then offer the appropriate platform to convey this message. To do this, a "critical" mass of exhibitors would have to come together under a suitable claim and credibly fill it with content. At the same time, the trade fair must once again become a "scene meeting place" where self-reflection and the exploration of new opportunities can be discussed. And it should be clear that the target audience for this trade fair goes far beyond that of established grillers. Because the grilling world needs to recognize that there are people who grill but who do not define themselves as grillers or as part of a scene. Just as not everyone who enjoys cooking identifies as a cook. And certainly not as belonging to any cooking scene.
Now, one could argue that cooking trade fairs are all scene meeting places too. But that misses the point. Of course, there are large trade fairs, such as Anuga or Internorga, which always bring the cooking world together. And there are events like "Chef of the Year," which actually appeal exclusively to chefs. But cooking still has a strong media presence, which grilling never had. And with IFA, there is a truly large public trade fair that is the absolute must-attend event and showcase for most major companies in the kitchen/cooking sector – also with regard to end customers and media echo.
The first step for a leading and public trade fair around grilling, certainly not on this scale, would be to unite the remaining industry on such a course. This requires the corresponding will and the readiness of all to put in the necessary energy and consistency. Because the industry doesn't have too many attempts left.
