FIRE&FOOD Restaurant Recommendation: Guller American Restaurant
There are people who like to grill and know a thing or two about BBQ. There are numerous experts who possess a wealth of BBQ knowledge. And then there is a true BBQ nerd – his name is Robert Wagner. We meet him at his American restaurant "Guller" in Lahr in the Black Forest, located directly on the B 415. A restaurant over 200 years old, where barbecue has not just been lived, but celebrated, since 2023.
Two huge smokers greet us in front of the entrance. One of them goes by the name "Earl Grey" – it was christened as such by Robert’s daughter, who also carries the BBQ gene, because of its grayish patina. This offset smoker was imported from the USA – and here in Lahr, it runs on continuous operation. The mechanical engineer is a newcomer to the BBQ scene; his calling is Texas BBQ. In a short time, he has meticulously built up an enormous wealth of knowledge through many different channels. BBQ techniques and methods, expertise on meat and cuts, processes inside the food during cooking: Robert Wagner applies the scientific, precise work of an engineer to his passion for smokers.
Text: Adrian Ludwig, Photos: Robert Guller, Adrian Ludwig
How do flow patterns and heat distribution work; how much energy is needed at what time? Which wood works best with which wood moisture content? In his restaurant, up to 2.5 stere (cubic meters) of wood can be burned in the smokers in a single week. And speaking of numbers: guests consume approximately 1.1 tons of brisket per month. On top of that, there are masses of beef ribs and various house creations. These quantities – and a look at the busy online booking system – speak for themselves. The preparation and smoking of "long jobs" obviously require a great deal of time and care. And in the Guller, that means: there are no electronically controlled smokers in sight; purist manual labor is required. The smoking takes place at night – and the boss takes on the night shifts himself. Only a warming cabinet is used to keep the food hot. Exquisite BBQ gets around – Robert’s following after just two years has reached 95k on Instagram and 86k on his YouTube channel. Guests now come from the entire DACH region (Germany, Austria, Switzerland) to the Guller – the restaurant has held the Alemannic name for "rooster" since the 1980s and is firmly rooted in the region. People are happy to drive 600 to 800 kilometers for this authentic BBQ pleasure, as confirmed by a glance at the license plates in the parking lot. Such high demand is, of course, reflected in the reservations, which you should definitely make in advance – regardless of how long your drive is.
Guller – American Restaurant
Geroldsecker Vorstadt 93
77933 Lahr/Black Forest
Tel: +49 (0)7821 5495594
www.guller-lahr.de
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